TY - JOUR
T1 - Popular cuisines at tourist tables
T2 - Moroccan bissara and its rising path between heritage and commodification
AU - Lucas, Joana
N1 - info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDB%2F04038%2F2020/PT#
info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDP%2F04038%2F2020/PT#
UIDB/04038/2020
UIDP/04038/2020
PY - 2023/6
Y1 - 2023/6
N2 - In the current context of debate about food heritage and its implications for territories and communities, this text seeks to trace the history and path of a Moroccan food preparation - the bissara (a fava bean soup) - enlightening the narrative reconfigurations to which this dish has been subjected over time, focusing on its resignification and valorization in the framework of a new global heritage order. Starting from an analysis of historical sources and cookbooks focused on the Moroccan territory, this text also builds on ethnographic fieldwork carried out in Chefchaouen (Morocco) in which participant observation was carried out in markets and restaurants, as well as interviews were conducted with tourists and local inhabitants. The text will discuss how, in a territory marked by the heritage reasoning triggered by the classification of the “Mediterranean Diet” in 2010 by UNESCO - of which Chefchaouen is the representative city of Morocco - the way bissara was re-signified and valued, in its conversion from humble dish to a strong identity dish, is part of a recurrent and contemporary process of obliteration of the past for the creation of commodities with heritage value.
AB - In the current context of debate about food heritage and its implications for territories and communities, this text seeks to trace the history and path of a Moroccan food preparation - the bissara (a fava bean soup) - enlightening the narrative reconfigurations to which this dish has been subjected over time, focusing on its resignification and valorization in the framework of a new global heritage order. Starting from an analysis of historical sources and cookbooks focused on the Moroccan territory, this text also builds on ethnographic fieldwork carried out in Chefchaouen (Morocco) in which participant observation was carried out in markets and restaurants, as well as interviews were conducted with tourists and local inhabitants. The text will discuss how, in a territory marked by the heritage reasoning triggered by the classification of the “Mediterranean Diet” in 2010 by UNESCO - of which Chefchaouen is the representative city of Morocco - the way bissara was re-signified and valued, in its conversion from humble dish to a strong identity dish, is part of a recurrent and contemporary process of obliteration of the past for the creation of commodities with heritage value.
KW - Heritage
KW - Morocco
KW - Popular food
KW - Tourism
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85160536109&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1016/j.ijgfs.2023.100744
DO - 10.1016/j.ijgfs.2023.100744
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:85160536109
SN - 1878-450X
VL - 32
SP - 1
EP - 7
JO - International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science
JF - International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science
M1 - 100744
ER -