@article{6a4c6af7d0c547e58dbfaa6f0b2fd328,
title = "A Royal Mystery: A Multianalytical Approach for Dyestuff Identification in Seventeenth Century Waistcoats",
abstract = "Early modern materials are not well represented in dye and mordant analyses despite extensive documentary evidence suggesting the enormous demand for coloured fabrics, even among those below the elite. Non-wovens likewise receive less attention than woven textiles despite their ubiquity in the early modern historical record. Knitted garments, in particular, have rarely been subjected to dye analysis. One garment is noteworthy for its colourfulness, despite not being visible in formal wear. Men throughout society wore knitted undergarments known as waistcoats from the late sixteenth century. The waistcoats under investigation here are from the collections at the London Museum and the Grimsthorpe and Drummond Castle Trust, Scotland. They are made of silk and are now a pale blue-green colour. Small samples were taken from each and subjected to a series of analytical techniques: micro-Raman spectroscopy, UV-Vis microspectrofluorimetry, and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled with a mass spectrometer. Using this protocol, it was possible to characterise the dyes in the waistcoats by ensuring that maximum information was gleaned from a sample before it was exhausted.",
keywords = "dye analysis, early modern, indigo, knit, silk, yellow dyes",
author = "Jane Malcolm-Davies and Beatrice Behlen and Nat{\'e}rcia Teixeira and Paula Nabais",
note = "info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/CEEC IND4ed/2021.01344.CEECIND%2FCP1657%2FCT0028/PT# info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/CEEC IND 2018/CEECIND%2F00025%2F2018%2FCP1545%2FCT0009/PT# info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDB%2F50006%2F2020/PT# info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/Concurso de avalia{\c c}{\~a}o no {\^a}mbito do Programa Plurianual de Financiamento de Unidades de I&D (2017%2F2018) - Financiamento Program{\'a}tico/UIDP%2F50006%2F2020/PT# Funding Information: This research was supported by a Janet Arnold Award from the Society of Antiquaries of London to Beatrice Behlen, London Museum. Thanks are due to the Grimsthorpe and Drummond Castle Trust for permission to take samples. The Knitting in Early Modern Europe project, which initiated research into evidence for early knitting, was funded by the Marie Sk\u0142odowska Curie Research Fellowship (grant agreement 656748) and a Stiftelsen Agnes Geijers fond for Nordisk textilforskning, grant number FS2019-0056, to Jane Malcolm-Davies. This publication is based upon work from COST Action EuroWeb, CA19131, supported by COST (European Cooperation in Science and Technology). Publisher Copyright: {\textcopyright} 2024 by the authors.",
year = "2024",
month = aug,
doi = "10.3390/heritage7080189",
language = "English",
volume = "7",
pages = "4017--4026",
journal = "Heritage",
issn = "2571-9408",
publisher = "MDPI - Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute",
number = "8",
}